Frostburg to the Divide

Greenbrier River Bike Trail – West Virginia - see the October 2006 Photos
The Greenbrier River Bike Trail sounded like the ideal healthy activity for our family. Fresh air, exercise, sunshine, the scenery of West Virginia and a night’s accommodation at a homely Bed and Breakfast would relieve the hectic urban lifestyle of Washington DC.

At 5.00am on Sunday morning the idea seemed like madness, but the kids were cooperative and we were on the road by 5.40am. With only a brief Interstate 81 stop for fuel and a "nasty" coffee we arrived at 10.00am. The parking area at Renick West Virginia was perfect, warm sunshine, golden trees with fall colour, the sound of the Greenbrier River and church bells ringing. We stretched, looked around, snacked and despite mum’s warnings nearly fell in the river. Suddenly, two kayak topped cars sped into the parking area. One car soon left with both two kayaks on top and our car was no longer alone.

A quick photo session in the autumn sunshine and we were off. The first kilometre was drudgery. Horses had chopped up the surface and the kids found it very hard going. Was the plan going to work? Would we be sleeping under the stars? At this rate we would not make the 55 kilometres to the Marlinton Bed and Breakfast by nightfall. However, the trail surface improved markedly after Milepost 27 and our average speed increased so that it now looked good.

A drink break provided a valuable rest. For one boy it was a real cool down. Despite mum’s warnings again, a slip into the Greenbrier meant wet shoes and socks. Although the trees were bright reds and orange with autumn colour, the daytime air was warm so the wet feet were not a serious problem. The weather had been wet for a few days until that Sunday morning; even the drive to Renick from Washington had been through rain showers. The Greenbrier River was high and the water was an opaque green colour that contrasted with the oranges of the forest. Around the next bend, the river veered to the right and a mountain seemed to block our way, until we saw Droop Tunnel. What a challenge for two young boys! Our helmets and gaudy red flashing lights helped the tunnel traverse. The curve of Droop tunnel means absolute darkness in the middle, even though it is not particularly long.
Lunch time came quickly and next picnic area was occupied, but there was some space near the Greenbrier River. Two people at picnic area were the kayakers from the Renick car park earlier in the day. After a quick lunch we headed off towards Seebert. We hoped there would be some cool water for sale there, and Jack Horner’s Corner outfitters had plenty.

From Seebert to Marlinton the Greenbrier trail had spectacular bridge crossings, including one over the Greenbrier River, which was now on our left. We reached hard pavement and increased our pace into Marlinton. The boys were tired and hungry, so we called Dave and Paula at the Naturally You Bed and Breakfast to say we would have dinner before arriving. Next to the Greenbrier River at Marlinton, the Riverside Diner was an obvious and good choice for dinner. Debra’s West Virginia pan special was a delight, as were everyone else’s less adventurous meals. All the long miles of riding builds hunger so Debra followed up with a blackberry cobbler, so good that every morsel was finished in minutes.
The trip up the hill to the accommodation proved a bit of a challenge in the dark, mainly because the road (WV39) did not have much of a shoulder. The Naturally Bed and Breakfast was excellent. The boys were able to indulge in a large spa bath and sleep came quickly.

Breakfast was a healthy array of delicious food. A little wandering around the farm on the foggy fall morning and a quick check of the bikes mechanical functions meant that it was suddenly 11.00am. Riding back from Marlinton to Renick was much easier and quicker than the previous day due to the downhill gradient. Our planned lunch at Seebert was a let down, Jack Horner’s Corner outfitters was closed for Columbus Day, so we made do with fruit and cake from the saddlebags. The Greenbrier Trail was very peaceful all day; the only other bike rider was one of the kayakers from the previous day. The autumn sunshine was punctuated on occasions by thick swarms of ladybeetles, thank goodness for sunglasses.

We arrived back at the car in the Renick car park at 5.00pm. Angus fell asleep before the car engine was started and we arrived in Arlington at 10.40pm. A difficult week at work and school followed, but the memory of the Greenbrier in the fall is fantastic.